Southern Xinjiang Guide: Kashgar, the Pamirs and the Desert

Kashgar: the old Silk Road city

Kashgar has been a trading town for more than two thousand years. Walk through the restored Old City, with its craft workshops, tea houses and bakeries, and visit the Id Kah Mosque, one of the largest mosques in China.

The Sunday markets are a highlight: the bazaar is busy every day, and the livestock market on Sunday is one of the liveliest sights in Central Asia.

The Karakoram Highway and the Pamirs

South of Kashgar, the Karakoram Highway climbs into the Pamirs. Karakul Lake, at about 3,600 metres, reflects the snowy peaks of Muztagh Ata, and further on Tashkurgan, home of the Tajik people, has an old stone fortress and wide grasslands.

These are high places, so walk slowly, drink water and tell your guide if you feel unwell. The road runs close to the border, and permits or checkpoints may apply; tours arrange what is needed.

The desert and the oases

• The Taklamakan Desert: one of the largest sand deserts in the world, crossed by the desert highway
• Kuqa: an oasis town with Buddhist cave art at Kizil and the dramatic Tianshan Grand Canyon nearby
• Hotan: famous for jade, silk and carpets
• Yarkand: a historic town with the royal tombs of the Yarkand Khanate

When to go

• April to June: pleasant days, apricot blossoms in the Pamir villages in early spring, and fresh fruit.
• July to August: hot in the oases and the desert, cooler in the mountains.
• September to October: harvest season, golden poplars along the rivers and clear mountain views.
• November to March: cold and dry, with snow on the high passes.

Travel tips

• Almost all food is halal: try polo (pilaf), samsa baked in clay ovens and hand-pulled laghman noodles.
• Dress modestly, especially in the old towns and when visiting mosques.
• Keep your passport with you for the frequent ID checks.
• Xinjiang runs on Beijing time, but daily life follows a local clock about two hours later, so meals and sunsets are late.